1. Park your car on a level surface. If you have a stick shift car make sure the car is in gear. Do not set the parking brake. Place blocks in front of the front tires so the car does not move while you are working on it.
2. Open the hood of your car and locate the master cylinder. If necessary, remove brake fluid until the level in the container is less than half full. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Put the brake fluid in the plastic container and dispose of it the way you dispose of motor oil.
3. Raise the rear end of your car with your car jack. Remove the rear tire or wheel assembly.
4. Remove the parking brake cable from the back of the caliper. Use the pliers to remove the cable clip (restraining clip).
5. Use the socket wrench to remove the upper mounting bolt from the caliper. If the upper guide pin moves while you do this, use a back-up wrench to hold the upper guide pin.
6. Rotate the caliper downward, pivoting it on the lower caliper bolt. Remove the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper.
1. Turn the caliper piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper housing. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.
2. Swing the caliper upward and into place. Apply a thin coat of thread locking compound to the bolt and use the socket wrench to tighten the bolt to 271 inch lb. (35 Nm).
3. Reattach the parking brake cable to the caliper.
4. Replace the tire wheel assembly. Lower the car to the ground.
5. Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the brake pads. Do this before trying to move your car.
6. Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace any you removed before you removed the old brake pads.
7. Season the brake pads by making only gentle stops when you are driving for the first week after you install the new brake pads. Try not to do any hard stopping when you are seasoning the brakes.
1) Turn they key to the II position
2) Turn the key to the off position, and push and hold in the odometer reset button
3) Turn they key back to the II position, while still holding the button.
4) After about 10-15 seconds, the light should go off.
1. Pull the hood release to open the hood. Prop it up with a rod and locate the battery under the hood.
2. Find the negative battery terminal. You will see a clamp with a nut on it. Loosen the nut with an adjustable wrench and slid the clamp off of the battery terminal.
3. Wrap a towel around the negative battery clamp and keep it away from the battery altogether. The towel will help to protect you and the battery.
4. Let the vehicle sit for about 15 minutes. This will allow the computer to reset and erase all trouble codes.
5. Discard the towel and put the negative battery clamp back onto the negative battery terminal. Tighten the nut with the wrench. Tuck the rod away and lower the hood of the car.
6. Put the key into the ignition and start the engine. Verify that all service and warning lights have turned off.
Put the key into the ignition and turn it to position “I.”
Press the trip odometer button in and hold it. Turn the ignition key to position “II.”
Wait about 5 seconds until the service engine light begins to blink. After the 4th blink, turn the ignition key back to position “I.”
Release the button and start the engine. The light should have turned off. If not, repeat steps 1 through 4 again.
Turn the key to position 2in the steering lock and immediately press the KM button twice briefly.
Within 10 seconds, turn the key back to position 0 in the steering lock.
Press and hold down the KM button. Turn the key to position 2 in the steering lock. Hold the KM button down for a further 10 seconds.
The service indicator with current remaining distance/remaining time appears.
After about 10 seconds, an acoustic signal will sound and the service displaywith the new remaining distance/remaining time will appear for about 10 seconds.
Relaese the KM button.
All quoted direct from the handbook! It took me a couple of goes to get it to reset (lack of counting ability maybe!) but I got it reset in the end.